Final post! This project involved learning a great deal more about Rhino3d in an extended project. The assignment was to find a reasonably complex object, and then learn how to use and use digital calipers to measure and accurately reproduce every angle, facet, corner, edge, thickness, and diameter of that object in Rhino3d. I decided to measure and render a full 3d reproduction of an Arduino UNO, with case. I think I must have put at least 30 hours or more into this. And now for the renders! First view is just a simple overhead view, looking down at the Arduino UNO. Followed by a normal isometric view. A more fun closeup of the power and USB input side of it. A fancy lighting view with at least a half a dozen different lights! A super closeup of some of the components and chips. And finally, an exploded view of all the components laid out. Again, seriously, at least 30 hours put into this, measuring all sorts of really tiny components and angles, but I really do think...
I really took inspiration from some of the brickwork, wooden surfaces, and closeups of textured fabric I documented, as well as a ring of holes in an elevator speaker grille. Combining all these elements along with a seaside ocean palette led me to creating this surface design. With a spiral as a base, triangular elements intersect the spiral, alternating colours and intensity as it draws the eye inwards. A single edge of the triangular shapes overlap with the spiral, creating an illusion of layering and depth as the colours alternate. Below, I experimented with strong linear shapes to create contrast with the curvilinear spiral and triangular shapes - and then at the outer edges beyond all that I emphasized irregular, non-linear shapes, with a sunny sandy beach colour theme. I initially struggled with remembering the commands, but just looking up the Rhino 3d tutorial website - https://docs.mcneel.com/rhino/7/help/en-us/commands/hatch.htm - and experimenting, learnin...
I ended up picking the Arduino UNO to disassemble and reproduce in 3d! Poor thing. But it's for a good cause! Once I have this accurately reproduced in 3d to 0.1mm accuracy I'll have a solid accurate reference foundation for future special projects - for example, designing and 3d printing accurate chassis for various special projects. For this progress blog I focused on that acrylic top plate with all the fiddly angles and measurements. Learned a lot about accurate measuring in this - I was fortunate enough to be able to rotate and flip this top plate to double and triple check the accuracy. Also learned to double check I'm accurately zero'd out, as that button can sometimes be accidentally be pressed in the midst of recording things. Some organizational tips I figured out as I was doing this so I don't get overwhelmed - USE LAYERS. At least three - I have one layer I use for the base curves I'll extrude later on for 3d. A second layer for accurate ...
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